#LCFMA20 Fashion Design Technology Menswear: Class of 2020 — Part II

Tatiana Sidorova — Runist

Immigrating to a new country is a revealing experience, and it inevitably changes your perceptions and attitudes. My collection tells the story of the immigrant struggling with nostalgia, suffering from an obsessive longing and dreaming of his past life.

Illustrations by Tatiana Sidorova.

Growing up in post-Soviet Russia and then moving to England has made me live incredible and unrepeatable experiences, and I've combined both elements on my designs.

Sustainability has been a big part of my collection. I used dead stock fabrics where possible, and tried hard to minimise the leftovers of cutting through patterns.

Kyle Ho — Atteindre Le Ciel

When we are children, we always dream of reaching the sky. We walk on tiptoes, wishing to grow taller so we can get closer to the sky. This desire is reflected in my collection, playing with the pastel colour palette and the shapes of the garments.

Photographer: Andy Hoang; Model: Lee Jay Hoy; Collaborator: Katherine Elizabeth (hats).

This collection challenges how we perceive the male body. The design explores various forms; shortening, extending, narrowing and widening relative planes of fabric to create a distorted yet elegant physique.

Photographer: Andy Hoang; Models: Lee Jay Hoy and Jesse Cayford; Collaborator: Katherine Elizabeth (hats).

The construction of each piece is deeply embedded in the exploration of the male form, seeking to manipulate the perception of one's figure via enhanced proportions to create an exaggerated silhouette.

Mengliang Yuan — Portable Wardrobe

This collection explores the volume of clothes and the personal requirements for men’s clothing. The use of lightweight nylon fabrics allows all clothing to be packable.

Photographer: Xiao Xiyuan; Model: Omar Quavi.

The one-piece pattern cutting method reduces the amount of sewing required to make a garment whilst when the one piece is cut into stripes, it forms a visual orientation following different colour patterns.

Photographer: Xiao Xiyuan; Model: Omar Quavi.

The use of lightweight fabrics created from nylon combined with 3D printed buttons make my collection pretty special and unique.

Xihe Li — Intergrowth

This project explains the transformation of human identities between the realms of the real and the virtual world. I got the inspiration from the impact of social networks on people living in the contemporary times.

For this collection, I put a lot of detail into the pattern cutting and fabrics. I used 'reversible' as the keyword to develop my pattern, so my garments can be worn in different ways: front to back, inside to outside and above to below.

In order to increase the sense of technology and the futuristic feeling of the collection, I tried to show more changeability on the fabric using metallic luster — the colours will change depending on the light and the angle.

Zitong Wang — They Are Blooming

This collection is based on a comparative study between the paintings that French artist Claude Monet created at his garden in Giverny in the 1890s, and the experience of the same garden 130 years later.

Photographer: Quingyang Chen; Silk flower accessories: Zhen Cai.

After visiting the garden in person, I realised the similarities in colours remain true to the impression given by the paintings. This inspired me to use a deconstruction technique for my designs, using different layers to build up different colours through cloth.

Photographer: Quingyang Chen; Collaborators: Zhen Cai (silk flower accessories), Helen (footwear), Hanxian Co. (prints) and Shasha Song (machinist).

The nostalgic and romantic look is completed with transparencies, digital prints from hand-painted patterns and handmade floral surfaces to accentuate depth.