Designing for sustainability and functionality, BA and MA Fashion and BA Fashion Communication x Canada Goose: Keeping the Planet Cold speaks to the human experience. 17-21 February at the Lethaby Gallery.
Keeping the Planet Cold shares critical thinking around design: responsive to the ways we are human and with a responsibility to our planet, inspired by habitats that are feeling the full force of the climate and ecological emergency. Displaying outerwear pieces, lifestyle objects and mixed media portfolios, it introduces a range of outcomes from collaborative projects between Canada Goose and Central Saint Martins (CSM) MA Fashion, BA Fashion Design and BA Fashion Communication during 2022.
MA Fashion students were briefed to source their own sustainable materials and to propose capsule collections inspired by the work of research scientists at Polar Bears International, a non-profit for polar bear conservation in Canada, home of the Canada Goose brand. Visitors can see capsule collections by MA students Arianna Ablondi Pedretti, Chie Kaya and Jacob Yakubu Stapleton, whose work was judged exceptional by a panel of industry contributors.
BA Fashion students were invited to present designs reclaiming deadstock fabrics and garments not repairable under warranty, with BA Fashion Communication students creating film, photography and other media exploring these designs. Highly commended concepts created and shot by BA students in the exhibition include a Secret Tree Quilt, a Canadian Reminiscence swimwear collection and Nuna, the multifunctional Earth Creature and bag.
Curated by BA Fashion Communication: Fashion Theories and Histories graduate Alisha Shepherd, Keeping the Planet Cold represents further collaboration in the design of the exhibition, which was led by CSM MA Architecture academics Adriana Cobo Corey and Kleanthis Kyriakou.
Canada Goose x Women
Arianna Ablondi Pedretti, @missablondi
MA Fashion (Womenswear)
The Bodice jacket, The Ladies Room pants and bodysuit, The Bumpads skirt, The CG x Women bag, The Ponytail headpiece and The Trompe L’Oeil boots
“Canada Goose goes ecofeminist. A capsule collection embracing women in science, sustainability and feminine functionality. There will be no sustainable world without women’s liberation. The two go hand in hand. This is the primary concept behind the sustainable approach of Canada Goose x Women capsule collection. The conceptual idea is that women will liberate themselves and Nature at the same time. Moreover, the collection embraces sustainability by proposing luxury accessories made out of recycled rubber, such as a hand bag and the soles of the boots, recycled technical waterproof jersey materials and all of the design development of the project being made from existing, vintage garments. The main design of the garments are created with small patches of deadstock fabric in order to reduce waste, which means that whatever is left from cut out production can be used on the next piece. The garments are fur free and made to last. And finally, the versatility and the adjustability of the pieces enables to extend the lifetime of the garments, as they can be worn separately sparing their use according to the convenience of the woman wearing them.
The CG project has definitely been a challenge, but it was the proof for me that any opportunity can become beneficial, and we can make it our own if we believe in our core principals. It was amazing for me to have the opportunity to explore women's functionality in such a specific and technical way, as this field is usually reserved to purely menswear.”
Arianna Ablondi Pedretti, MA Fashion (Womenswear)
Future Form: Objects for Canada Goose by Yaku
Yaku Stapleton @yaku.____/
MA Fashion (Menswear)
“For this project, I explored how my sculptural approach to design could be balanced with functionality in extreme weather conditions. My main inspiration came from snow formations I saw on a walk years before in Stone City, Russia in December last year as well as Polar Bear anatomy. This was a natural continuation from my previous research into perception and human form. Continuing to centre sustainability within my practise, I used waste bedding as filling and dead-stock fabric as the shell for a pant, bag, and furless jacket. The jacket features packable (mock) bear teeth that allow the owner to adjust the feeling of the piece to their taste.
The thinking behind the packable bear teeth was initially a tribute to the work of the PBI. A reminder of what was at the core of the research. In a wider approach, within my work, I seek to find the balance between fashion design and costume/fantasy. This is something I have got deeper into since this project but it's clear now that this was a key moment in building this approach. The element of play is important, and I think these teeth allow the wearer to take part in that process. There's no age limit on dress-up.
As a designer, this brief took me to a new level. I had previously made large garments using filling however I had not had to work to specifications. Previously, I was searching for limits. Having limits put in place in terms of where the garments could be used (extreme cold weather) meant that I had to assess the functionality of what I was making. This was a 'lightbulb' moment for me as I now had to think deeper about each detail of what I was making. Everything needed a reason/function. Most importantly it showed me that it is possible to work with a global brand and stay true to my design identity. It was an opportunity to see how I can convey my design language within someone else's world.”
Yaku Stapleton, MA Fashion (Menswear)
Capsule Escape, Kaya Chie x Canada Goose
Kaya Chie @kayachieee
MA Fashion (Womenswear)
Goose Lady Swimming Cap, Goose Lady Smart Jacket, Goose Lady Inside Out Expedition Skirt, Goose Lady Heel Boots, Goose Lady Quilted Evening Dress and Goose Lady Belt Wallet.
“This is a reimagined real winter wardrobe designed for the Goose Ladies – female researchers and scientists on the North Pole, at Polar Bears International. My design coalesces around the theme of tension, nostalgia and femininity. The aim is to look for a design that these heroines are able to wear after work for their occasion events. The functionality becomes embellishment, the silhouette emphasises femininity, while the multi-function garments extend longevity. Above all, prioritising comfort and warmth.
I think when I’m designing, I constantly think about what women want to wear and how they feel when they wear my clothes. In the case of Goose ladies, they are women with skills and bravery, and I want to create pieces for them that would truly bring joys and elegance while balancing with functionalities.
Functionality was never a prior field of mine when it comes to designing clothes. The opportunity to design for Canada Goose made me realise that how important it is to consider clothes from different aspects, especially when it comes to wearability in extreme weather conditions. It really helped me to explore something I have overlooked before for example, the very details in construction of clothes (pockets, zips), materials, structures and trimmings within a specific demand of being waterproof, wind proof, ultra thermo and safety etc. It enriched my knowledge in fashion moving forward for different projects.”
Chie Kaya, MA Fashion (Womenswear)
Secret Tree Quilt
Gioia Cheung @gioiacheungphotos, Chitung Ip @ipchitung, Vanessa Ho Yi Cheung @vanessahoyicheung, Anisha Kapoor, @anisha_kap Kenechi Carmel @kungfukenii, Hyo Park @hyoyoho
BA Fashion and BA Fashion Communication
“Preserving the oral tradition from intergenerational relationships enables us to capture the wisdom of our living libraries: “When an elder dies, a library burns to the ground.” People have been using materials to document their life experiences and to keep the memories of their loved ones alive, for centuries. We want to transform the lessons from those who came before us and pass down what key stories we think are important for the next generation.
The quilt is made from deadstock Canada goose fabrics, illustrating the lesson we wish to pass down to our future generations. We signify the importance of sustainability through an animated film, photography, and poetry.”
Gioia Cheung, Chitung Ip, Vanessa Ho Yi Cheung, Anisha Kapoor, Kenechi Carmel, Hyo Park, BA Fashion and BA Fashion Communication