BiographyDr Serkan Delice is a Senior Lecturer, Course Leader and Research Coordinator in the Department of Cultural and Historical Studies at the London College of Fashion—he coordinates the delivery of Cultural and Historical Studies within the Fashion Business School.
Serkan's current research investigates the possibilities of defining and practicing an ethics of transnational citizenship that challenges the systemic appropriation of labour and culture in the fashion industry. Focusing on the historical, and ongoing, centrality of refugee and immigrant labour to fashion production—and drawing upon Hannah Arendt’s idea that refugees ‘driven from country to country represent the vanguard’ of all stateless and displaced people, of all racialised and marginalised Others—Serkan explores ‘the refugee’ as a recurrent element of what Karl Marx calls ‘the disposable industrial army’, that is, ‘a mass of human material always ready for exploitation’ to satisfy the changing needs of the self-expansion of capital, especially during periods of crisis, and as a political identity that exposes the structurally exclusive character of the nation-state as a racialised and territorial myth of European construction.
RECENT AND FORTHCOMING PUBLICATIONS:
Delice, S. (2019) 'Thrown Away Like a Piece of Cloth': Fashion Production and the European Refugee Crisis' in Fashion & Politics (ed. Dr Djurdja Bartlett) New Haven and London: Yale University Press, pp. 197-215.
Delice, S. (2022) 'Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics' in Fashion Theory, The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 'Fashion and Transnationality Special Issue' (ed. Dr Djurdja Bartlett). DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869.
Almila, A. & Delice, S. (eds.) (forthcoming) Fashion's Transnational Inequalities: Socio-political, economic, environmental. London & New York: Routledge.
Delice, S. (work-in-progress) 'Appropriation, Viscerality, and Historicism' in Critical Theory Fashion (ed. Dr Marco Pecorari) Durham: Duke University Press.
Delice, S. (work-in-progress) 'Fashion and Decolonisation: A study of Achille Mbembe' in Thinking Through Fashion
A Guide to Key Theorists 2nd edition (eds. Prof Agnes Rocamora and Prof Anneke Smelik). London: Bloomsbury Publishing.
Delice, Serkan (2021) 'Breaking Down Borders: Movement & Migration Through Cloth' (as part of the panel with Alice Kettle, Bharti Parmar, Raisa Kabir, and host Amber Butchart). Conversations in Creativity for the British Textile Biennial, organised by A. Butchart and Creative Lancashire, 25 October 2021, Blackburn Cathedral.
Delice, Serkan (2021) Fashion and its refugees: towards a transnational worker solidarity and labour citizenship. In: What is Radical about Cultural Studies Now? Fashion, Culture and Politics in the Age of the Anthropocene, 11 - 12 June 2021, London College of Fashion.
Delice, Serkan (2021) Refugees as a Reserve Army of Labour: neoliberalism and the limits of fashion ethics. In: Reflecting on Refugee Experience, CHS Online Research Seminar Series, 23 March 2021, London College of Fashion.
Delice, Serkan (2021) The Empire’s New Clothes: racial capitalism and the limitations of decolonisation. In: Cultural Urgencies: Decentring Fashion, Roundtable Discussion organised by the UAL Decolonising Arts Institute, 2 March 2021, University of the Arts London.
Delice, Serkan (2020) Fashion production and the European Refugee Crisis. In: Fashion and Politics, Panel Discussion organised by Bookmarks: the socialist bookshop, 30 January 2020.
Delice, Serkan (2019) Cultural Appropriation: Fashion, Race, and the Limits of Critique. In: Being the Other – Orientalizing, Self-Orientalizing and Deconstruction, Workshop organised by Institut für Orientalistik, Otto-Friedrich-Universität Bamberg, 25-26 July 2019.
Delice, Serkan (2019) Cultural appropriation in translation: fashion, race and the limits of critique. In: A la Mexicana: An encounter of Mexican fashion and artisan techniques: Cultural appropriation panel discussion organised by UAL London College of Fashion MA Fashion Entrepreneurship and Innovation students in collaboration with the Mexican fashion blog Hilando Historias, NGO Impacto and the Mexican Embassy, 3 July 2019, J/M Gallery, London.
Delice, Serkan (2018) Fashion and Emotions in the Age of Neoliberal Capitalism. In: New Borders, New Boundaries: Fashion in a Shifting World, Symposium Organised by Calvert 22 Space, 17 March 2018.
Delice, Serkan (2018) Fashion and its refugees: labour, ethics and activism in neoliberal times. In: Symposium: Feminist Visual Activism, Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA), London, 10 July 2018.
Delice, Serkan (2018) Cultural appropriation in translation: fashion, race, and the limits of critique. In: EFHA International Conference 2018 Europe and Fashion: Questioning Identities and Cultures, 8–9 November 2018, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.
- Delice S. Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics (2022)
Conference, Symposium or Workshop item
- Delice S. Fashion and its refugees: towards a transnational worker solidarity and labour citizenship (2021)
- Delice S. The Empire’s New Clothes: racial capitalism and the limitations of decolonisation (2021)
- Delice S. Refugees as a Reserve Army of Labour: neoliberalism and the limits of fashion ethics (2021)
- Delice S. Cultural Appropriation: Fashion, Race, and the Limits of Critique (2019)
- Delice S. Cultural appropriation in translation: fashion, race and the limits of critique (2019)
- Delice S. Cultural appropriation in translation: fashion, race, and the limits of critique (2018)
- Delice S. Fashion and its refugees: labour, ethics and activism in neoliberal times (2018)
- Delice S. Fashion and Emotions in the Age of Neoliberal Capitalism (2018)
Current research students
- Kathryn Caric, Between Artisan Communities and the Global Fashion Industry: Moving Beyond the Binaries of Cultural Appropriation (Joint supervisor)
- Gavin Douglas, The Relationship Between Race and Fashion: How the Social Discourse of Race Impacts the Lived Experience and Creative Practices of Black British Fashion Design Professionals. (Joint supervisor)
- Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, From Karl Marx to Karl Lagerfeld: An exploration of identity construction in editorial content in Vogue China 2005-15 (Joint supervisor)
- Karley Thompson, How is Style and Dress Adopted by Black British Women to Signal the Process of ‘Becoming’? (Joint supervisor)
- Fiona Uwamahoro, The Rwandan Fashion Entrepreneurship Ecosystem (Joint supervisor)
- Natasha Vinnikova, An Investigation Into Fashion as an Indicator of Women’s Role in Society Through the Lens of Soviet Films Between 1953 – 1991 (Joint supervisor)
Curation and culture
Journalism, PR, media and publishing