Professor Sandy Black
BiographyProfessor Sandy Black has extensive experience in both the fashion industry and academia. As designer and director of the Sandy Black Knitwear label, she sold inventive fashion knitwear to prestigious stores internationally, and developed the successful Sandy Black Original Knitting yarns and pattern kits. Sandy then entered higher education and directed undergraduate and postgraduate fashion and textiles programmes, first at University of Brighton then London College of Fashion, where she developed the innovative multi-disciplinary MA programme in Fashion Studies. She was the programmes first director until 2005, then focused on fashion research, starting the pioneering Interrogating Fashion inter-disciplinary research cluster. Sandy has conducted academic review for many institutions and for public bodies; in 2014 she was an assessment panel member for Art and Design: History, Theory, Practice in the UK Research Excellence Framework.
Sandy publishes widely on fashion, textiles and knitwear design and their intersection with technology and sustainability. Her books include the co-edited volume The Handbook of Fashion Studies (Bloomsbury 2013 h/b, 2017 p/b); the internationally acclaimed The Sustainable Fashion Handbook (Thames and Hudson 2012, London and New York); the comprehensive historical monograph Knitting: Fashion, Industry, Craft (V&A Publishing 2012), based on extensive archival and contemporary research; and one of the pioneer texts on sustainable fashion Eco Chic: the Fashion Paradox (Black Dog Publishing 2008, 2nd ed. 2011 ). Sandy founded and co-edits the academic journal Fashion Practice: Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry (Routledge), published since 2009, giving a voice to the practitioner and integrating research, design practice and enterprise in fashion.
Sandy’s research focus is inter-disciplinary design-led research, within the context of sustainability. She develops projects that integrate old and new technologies and seeks new approaches to the design and creation of fashion-related products through the relationship between craft practices and advanced technology.
A key concept underpinning this research is the notion of Considerate Design, developed from the Interrogating Fashion Research Cluster in 2005: responsible design that takes into account the wider environmental, ethical, and social impact of products together with life cycle thinking, and the needs of individual users.
New contexts, new business models and increasing awareness of compelling environmental and social issues are stimulating new paradigms for fashion. As principal investigator of two EPSRC/AHRC funded projects, Interrogating Fashion and Considerate Design, both part of the inter-disciplinary research initiative ‘Designing for the 21st Century’, Sandy brought together fashion and textile designers, academics in engineering design, computing and material science, artists and researchers to discuss future ideas and changing paradigms for fashion in the 21st century. Following on from the Interrogating Fashion research cluster, Sandy led the inter-disciplinary Considerate Design project to assist designers in developing sustainable fashion products to ultimately reduce fashion consumption but increase consumer delight through personalisation enabled by technology and craft.
Recent research projects focus on the role of design and new business models in addressing sustainability issues in the fashion and textile sectors towards a more sustainable prosperity. These include the cross-UAL FIREup project, funded by the AHRC, a collaborative knowledge exchange platform researching ways to connect academic research with the designer fashion sector to enhance innovation and help build sustainable businesses; and the Research Councils UK funded project What’s Digital about Fashion Design.
Through her numerous PhD graduates, Sandy has helped establish design-led research in fashion practice, integrating innovative practice and design-led methodologies with theoretical frameworks, in order to develop hybrid design researchers who can lead new thinking in a space that spans both practice and theory.
Sandy’s personal research continues in knitwear, utilising the potential of advanced technology for three-dimensional structures. Drawing on her background in both knitwear design and mathematics, her research explores new forms in the realisation of knitwear, using advanced technologies and design based on mathematical concepts of topology.
Grants and awards
(Figures indicate amount awarded to UAL)
- Arts and Humanities Research Council, Rethinking Fashion Design Entrepreneurship: Fostering Sustainable Practices, £266,356.18, (2018-2021)
- Research Councils UK, NEMODE, £14,417.60, (2015-2015)
- Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), Knowledge Landscape, £9,976.00, (2014-2015)
- Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), FIRE.Digital: Digital Research Platform for Collaborative Fashion Innovation, £80,127.00, (2015-2015)
- Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC), Knitted Garments, £91,838.00, (2010-2015)
- Leverhulme Trust, Application of Mathematical Concepts of Topology to 3D Knitting Technology, £24,212.00, (2015-2015)
- Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), FIREup: Fashion Innovation Research and Enterprise, £200,814.00, (2013-2014)
- Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), Considerate Design for Personalised Fashion Products, £231,814.00, (2013-2014)
- Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC), Investigation of novel sensor-enabled knitted garments for healthcare monitoring, £91,838.00, (2010-2014)
- Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), AHRC Creative Economy Showcase: FIREUP, £6,207.00, (2014-2014)
Current research students
- Flavia Amadeu, Reflecting on capabilities and interactions between designers and local producers: through the materiality of the rubber from the Amazon rainforest. (Lead supervisor)
- Jessica Bugg, Interface: Concept and Context as strategies for Innovative Fashion Design and Communication: An Analysis from the Perspective of the Conceptual Fashion Design Practitioner. (Lead supervisor)
- Nicolas Cambridge, " Son of Samurai. Daughter of Butterfly: fashioning Japanese identity in the sartorial culture of the United Kingdom, 1980-2006. (Lead supervisor)
- Claudette Davis-Bonnick, Inclusive Teaching: Exploring Multisensory Methodology for Integrating Students with Visual Impairment at Mainstream Fashion University (Lead supervisor)
- Kadian Gosler, Intimate Apparel designed with Wearable Technology: An exploration of form, function, production and commercial realities (Lead supervisor)
- Lara Mendonca Guterres Torres, Towards a practice of unmaking: a strategy for critical fashion design practice. (Lead supervisor)
- Michelle Patricia Hanks, K2tog: The hand-knitted gift and its status and value in the twenty-first century (Lead supervisor)
- Umar Hassan Jan, The Evolution of Khadi handwoven fabric in Pakistan 1947-2011 (Lead supervisor)
- Zhirui Kiwy Huang, Computational Fashion - Digitising Fashion Design and Pattern Making Process. (Lead supervisor)
- Julie King, Colour Forecasting: An Investigation into how its Development and Use Impacts on Accuracy. (Lead supervisor)
- Lara Mendonca Guterres Torres, Additive processes, the creation of new methods in design and production of clothing? (Lead supervisor)
- Anna-Louise Meynell, Safeguarding traditional livelihoods: Addressing the impact of globalisation on handweaving practices in North East India. (Lead supervisor)
- Matteo Molinari, Crocheting Cultures: Contemporary craft practice in Italy and United Kingdom (Lead supervisor)
- Hormazd Narielwalla, Patterns as documents and drawings. (Lead supervisor)
- Katherine Pogson, Deep fashion: craft values as transformative tools to create new relationships with fashion artefacts, and more sustainable futures for consumers and makers in the UK. (Lead supervisor)
- Anne Prahl, Designing wearable sensors for Preventative Health: An exploration of material, form and function. (Lead supervisor)
- Caterina Radvan, Inclusive Design Solutions for Women's Fashion through advanced Knitting Technology. (Lead supervisor)
- Emma Rigby, Fashion Design and Laundry Practices: Practice-Orientated Approaches to Design for Sustainability. (Lead supervisor)
- Reiner Rockel, Self-regulating, knitted fabric system capable of moisture harvesting to establish an aeroponic micro-environment sustaining plant life (practice based) (Lead supervisor)
- Shaza Sabbagh, Beyond Traditional Jewellery: How can digital methods informdesign of novel forms of female body adornment? (Lead supervisor)
- Rhian Solomon, Designer Facilitator: The Body as a Meeting Place for Advancing Collaborations between Design and Reconstructive Surgical Fields to Enhance Methods in Clinical Practice. (Lead supervisor)
- Sorger Sorger, MATERIAL into PRACTICE; PRACTICE onto BODY; BODY out to SPACE. Embellishment as a spatial concept: supplementing the fabric of identity and fashion through the growth of techniques. (Lead supervisor)
- Martina Stenmetz, The Modern Woman’s Business Suit – An Investigation into Incorporating Freedom of Movement in the Block-pattern Construction for Soft-tailored Mass-produced Womenswear. (Lead supervisor)
- Emily Towers, The practice of mending: unravelling its effect on the wearer’s relationship to clothing (Lead supervisor)
- Maria Tsakalidou, Block Pattern adaptation for female adolescents with Scoliosis: An investigation into the feasibility of incorporating bodyshape asymmetry into Sizing Systems to improve garment fit. (Lead supervisor)
- Paul Yuille, Fast-fashion resource responsibility: how might raising the awareness of a UK fast-fashion consumer group through enhancing their understanding of the materiality of the sector, guide them to have more responsible resource use? (Lead supervisor)