This comprehensive shoe making course offers you a unique opportunity to learn and develop all aspects of footwear pattern cutting and making under the guidance of specialist footwear tutor Nafi Mustafa. Based at our Golden Lane site, you’ll have access to the full range of industrial machines used in the making process such as the skiving machine as well as the different types of sewing machines used for stitching leather...
Taught by: Nafi Mustafa, Havva Mustafa.
This comprehensive shoe making course offers you a unique opportunity to learn and develop all aspects of footwear pattern cutting and making under the guidance of specialist footwear tutor Nafi Mustafa.
Based at our Golden Lane site, you’ll have access to the full range of industrial machines used in the making process such as the skiving machine as well as the different types of sewing machines used for stitching leather. You’ll learn how to click (cut your leather by hand) and how to prepare and fit the many components involved such as the linings, insoles, stiffeners and heel coverings.
You’ll start the course with an introduction to footwear pattern cutting, including foot anatomy, size fitting systems and last measurements using a range of contemporary lasts, and a thorough overview of the industry. You will then, through a series of practical demonstrations and hands-on workshops, make three pairs of shoes and a pair of boots. You will build up a comprehensive set of reference notes and supporting patterns for all your shoes, cover information on suppliers and tools, as well as learning how to create and complete a sample specification ticket used in the industry.
The court shoe:
Your first making project will be a pair of ladies court shoes, which offers the best introduction to footwear pattern cutting, closing and shoe making. The styles you will investigate will include the 'Mary Jane' and' T-bar' before you move on to sketching your court shoe design onto the last and making your pattern.
You will be guided through the different types of leather suitable for your design before moving onto the making process. The tutor will demonstrate the skills needed to identify the different upper materials and hand cutting techniques involved in cutting. You will also be shown different types of edge treatments.
Flat sandal/high heel:
For your second project you will have the choice to make a flat sandal (male/female) or a high heel. You will design and cut your own patterns and investigate different styles including, slotted, skeleton and thong (sandals). You will move onto constructing the shoe, stitching the components together and attaching your sole and heels.
Loafer, court shoe or sandal:
Once confident with your new understanding of the making process you’ll start your third project designing and developing your own style of loafer (male/female), court shoe (female) or sandal (male/female), using the lasts and existing components you have been using.
Finally you will get an opportunity to make a boot and be introduced to new constructions methods and a choice of contemporary last and heel options to construct your boot. You'll have a choice between making a men's or women's Chelsea boot, or a women's high leg zipped boot.
- Creating mood/colour/materials boards
- How to draw: Women's closed shoes with high heel, women's high heel and flat sandals, mens/womens trainers, brogues /masculine styles for both men and women, boots
- Final design boards
- Stylized drawing
- Technical drawing with specification sheet
- Collection board
The course will include:
- Materials & leathers and appropriateness of selection
- Explanation of specialist equipment and machinery and treatments which may be achieved
- Basic understanding of terminology and foot anatomy
- Drawing onto the last
- Last taping
- Making an inside and outside/ mean form and design standard
- Closing (stitching the upper)
- Preparing the insole
- Lasting (shaping the leather)
- Attaching the sole and the heel
While every effort will be made to meet your size requirements, please be aware that it may not always be possible to make the shoe in your desired size. This is not a design course and the shoe style you make will be determined by the capabilities of the studio.
Beginners. You should have an interest in footwear making and a desire to learn but no previous experience is required.
Dates: (Saturdays, delivered in three parts)
Part 1: September 30th – December 16th (12 weeks)
Part 2: January 6th – March 24th (12 weeks)
Part 3 : April 21st – May 26th (6 weeks)
Due to the length of this course International Students who hold a passport from a country that is outside the EEA or Switzerland must already have immigration permission to stay in the UK which covers the full length of the course and has no restrictions on studying.
Your course place is confirmed once you have booked online or via the phone using a credit or debit card. There is no deadline for booking. Places are offered on a first come, first served basis, and all courses have a maximum number of students. We suggest you book early to avoid disappointment.
Payment plans are available for this course, please contact the Short Course office for more information.
Nafi Mustafa began his career at an early age working alongside his father who was a shoemaker. He studied at the Cordwainers College in East London where he gained a diploma in footwear design and a Royal Society of Arts bursaries and City & Guilds qualification in boot and shoe manufacturing. Following his graduation he ventured to Italy, where he trained and worked in the footwear industry, developing his appreciation and expertise in the craft of footwear. Shortly afterwards he worked with a range of brands including Bally of Switzerland, H&M Raynes, John Hlustik Design, Levis, Wrangler, Arrow and Clarks. He then went on to set up his own design consultancy company based in London, where he provided footwear manufacturers and tanners with a comprehensive range of design ideas for men’s women’s and children’s footwear, both in the UK and overseas.
Havva Mustafa was born into a family of third generation footwear artisans and designers, and growing up with the curious shapes of patterns, lasts and heels evoked an interest and passion for footwear from a very early age. Havva followed in her fathers footsteps and studied at the prestigious Cordwainers Footwear College in London. Developing strong technical skills and graduated with a degree in footwear design and construction, she spent several years in the footwear industry gaining valuable experience in design, development and resourcing roles. She has now developed and launched her own brand HAVVA.