London College of Fashion officially opened its LCFMA16 season this morning with the MA Menswear Catwalk, dubbed by Clash where, “10 students will (unofficially) launch LC:M.”
This year’s event, held in the City’s Banking Hall, was the second LCF MA Menswear catwalk show. 10 student designers showed their collections, with inspirations coming from far and wide, Jeuken Cho referenced depression and Robin Williams, Alexis Housden explored veils after a relationship break up, while Bethany Williams wanted to talk about political change through her favourite philosopher Jacques Rancière.
The ten LCFMA16 Menswear designers originate from all over the world, cementing LCF’s position as a leading global centre for fashion, innovation and education.
Styled by Anders Sølvsten Thomsen and with make up from Claire Mulleady and the M.A.C Pro team, the show was attended by 250 key industry figures and was live streamed globally.
Anders told Clash
“I’ve been really impressed with how different and widespread the groups references and designs have been. For example, Bethany Williams, whose collection is socially responsible and uses mainly recycled materials, Pakho Lee who is reinventing classic wardrobe pieces like denim jacket, biker and mac.”
If you missed the live stream here is a recap of the show.
MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear student Bethany Williams adressed social and political issues with her collection, ‘Breadline’. Working with Vauxhall Foodbank and Tesco she used recycled denim, wool and cardboard to create her garments. She aims to highlight and help find solutions to hidden hunger in the UK.
Ziqing Zhou describes her garments as masculine, sexy, blue, exclusive and intelligent. She wanted to create a breakthrough and distinctive sexiness to classic tailoring that hasn’t been seen before. The aim was to create an abnormal garment to represent the ‘new-normal’ in the fashion world.
Jeuken Cho drew inspiration from depression and the actor Robin Williams. His garments express the juxtaposition of happy on the outside and sad on the inside.
Alexis Housden, who also studied BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear at LCF, was inspired by a ‘monumental’ relationship breakup during his postgraduate. He began looking at German expressionism but dropped these plans and starting looking at veils and the way they are used in the Western world, for mourning and weddings.
Haili Jin, who presented under her brand name Jinhaili, was inspired by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who is most known for emphasising the beauty of space and nothingness at its most simplest form. She wanted to transfer this concept into her collection.
Victor Pastor Olivares based his collection on his fascination of the extraordinary transformations of birds of paradise and inspired by the states states of mind: conscious, unconscious and subconscious.
Grant-James Povey looked at the historical background of Britain for his collection. He explored veils and silhouettes of new designers and from late 1500s, mixing modern design with classical context.
Pakho Lee wanted to establish the real definition for minimalist fashion in his collection. He looked at different pattern grading and removed parts of the garment that weren’t deemed necessary.
Xiaozhou Su combined classical tailoring and the event-garde. The garments were designed to reference ideas from Matisse and other fine artists.
Peng Chen called his collection Normal-in-Normal. All his garments are one size, he drew inspiration from larger and thinner sizes of pattern cutting.
Thank you to the designers, the creative team, the musicians: Moses Concas and Edoardo Mazzola, and Bacchus Productions for such an inspiring show. The show will be available on YouTube shortly.