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Graduate Spotlight: MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear student Pakho Lee

LCF_MA16_MWPahkoLee web copy
LCF_MA16_MWPahkoLee web copy

Written by
Josh De Souza Crook
Published date
03 January 2016

London College of Fashion kicks off LCFMA16 with the MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear Catwalk Show this Friday 8 January, LCF News will be showcasing the collections of the final year students taking part throughout the week. Pakho Lee, a Hong Kong native completed his fashion BA in Hong Kong before deciding to pursue his dreams and study a postgraduate in London. LCF News caught up with Pakho ahead of the show to talk about fashion, his muse and what inspired his final collection.

LCF_MA16_MWPahkoLee web copy

MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear student Pakho Lee will be presenting his collection live this Friday 8 January, follow the live stream on LCFMA16.

Where did you study prior to MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear at LCF?

I studied BA Textile and Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University.

Tell us about your final collection?

My MA collection is all about being minimal. I wasn’t convinced by the existing definition of minimal fashion – I wanted to explore what minimal fashion is and what it could be. I started by establishing the size of an object, when comparable to human scale, this created a minimal scene. In the context of menswear, the concept is seen in pattern grading. The grading process is documented on the designs. As the size grows, I could see what was necessary for the garment and what could be taken away from the garment. After substantially removing garment parts, what was left was the imperative entities that construct and give identity to a garment. My collection conveys my own and controversial definition of minimal fashion.

Reflecting back on your MA, and thinking of any prospective students considering starting an MA, what would be your top three tips to them?

1. Deadlines! Take your deadlines very seriously, you need to stay on top of your schedule otherwise you might face referral. In Hong Kong, our tutors were very relaxed and would say, ‘it’s okay you’re only a few minutes late’, and they’d accept your work. This definitely doesn’t happen at LCF, so take your deadlines seriously!

2. Manage your time, and manage it well. The deadlines can creep up very quickly and things can get very hectic.

3. Always consider wearability and marketability. Garments are meant to be worn!

Describe your work in five words…

Subtractive, collective, minimal, young and disobedient.

Why did you choose LCF and MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear?

London College of Fashion is best known for it’s postgraduate courses, especially menswear. When I decided I wanted to study an MA, I knew London was my best option. The design environment in London and especially at LCF are very close to my design philosophy. For six years I’ve been either studying or working in the menswear industry, so it was an easy decision to persue menswear. Plus I definitely can’t design womenswear!

What have you found the most enjoyable and interesting parts of your course? And what have you found the most challenging?

The most challenging part is producing a whole collection of looks. Back in Hong Kong, we’d only do garments but in London, you have to design everything from accessories to bags to shoes. It’s a completely different area of expertise. I found it very challenging but also very interesting, I really enjoyed working and collaborating with other people from different industries.

What inspires you?

The garment itself, I think it’s the part of fashion.

What’s your favourite thing about studying in London?

I like the pace of doing things in London, but at the same time I hate it. London is very chilled and slow paced compared to Hong Kong. London pushes you to finish your portfolio five days or even a week in advance as printing and other crafts take longer, where as in Hong Kong you can leave it until the last minute. To me the pace of living in London is a much better compared to Hong Kong, but I always work last minute so I cant get things done here.

Do you have a muse? If so, who and why?

The band Hurts, I like their aesthetic in music and in fashion are very similar to my vision.

What are your future plans?

I’d like to find a job here, but also put myself forward for as many competitions as possible. I want to continue to grow my design and ability. I want to get some work experience before starting my own label.