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Unpicking Couture: celebrating pioneering creativity and design

Close-up of embroidered black and cream Jacket, Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937, Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard.
  • Written byLondon College of Fashion
  • Published date 06 June 2023
Close-up of embroidered black and cream Jacket, Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937, Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard.
Close-up of embroidered black and cream Jacket, Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937, Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard.

Unpicking Couture premieres spectacular high-end fashion which has recently entered Manchester Art Gallery’s collection.

Created by influential designers and fashion houses, each outfit represents a groundbreaking moment in fashion and includes works by Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli, Azzedine Alaïa, Cristobal Balenciaga, Pierre Cardin, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, Bruce Oldfield and Alexander McQueen.

This exhibition celebrates pioneering creativity and design.

The two main themes of the show are: investigating the links between fashion and emotions, in the form of dopamine dressing which encourages dressing for joy, and focusing on repair and restoration, inviting us to consider the lifecycle of a garment and the way it is valued and cared for.

The exhibition will reveal the recent restoration of a 1930s silk velvet jacket by Italian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, Unpicking Couture promotes sustainable approaches to repairing and preserving much loved and well-worn clothes.

Detail of dress, Alexander McQueen, 1996. Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard
Detail of dress, Alexander McQueen, 1996. Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard

The garments will be on display for the first time. They were acquired through a National Heritage Lottery Fund Collecting Cultures grant from 2015-20.

Unpicking Couture will expose the work that underpins the care of dress collections through a mediative time-lapse film that captures the process of dress mounting and how the craft and skill involved, mirrors the work of dressmakers and couturiers.

Innovative display techniques have been developed in conjunction with Dr. Jeff Horsley, Research Fellow from London College of Fashion, UAL’s Centre for Fashion Curation, including dynamic visual and spatial strategies and a focus on the making of the exhibition. These lively modes of presentation provide encounters for fashion as stimulation and immersion, enabling slow looking and inspiring conversation. Part display and part studio space, Unpicking Couture activates ideas around the value and care of collections, sustainability, expression of self, making and creativity.

Unpicking Couture is open from 21 July 2023  -  12 January 2025, at Manchester Art Gallery (free admission).

Jumpsuit and Cloak, Paco Rabanne, 1994. Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard.
Jumpsuit and Cloak, Paco Rabanne, 1994. Manchester Art Gallery. Photography: Michael Pollard.

Unpicking Couture has been developed by Manchester Art Gallery in collaboration with London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London with support from an Arts and Heritage Research Council grant.