Emma Rubinson was a fashion design student at Washington University in St. Louis, US. She joined Summer Study Abroad twice: the first time on the textile design course, exploring dyeing and printing methods and the second time on the advanced fashion design course, where she learnt more about developing a collection in her own style at Central Saint Martins (CSM). In 2023 she showed her latest collection at New York Fashion Week (NYFW).
How was studying abroad in London? What was your favourite thing about it?
I loved London. Studying at UAL was my first experience traveling abroad on my own, and I felt both independent and comfortable - the city felt familiar as a New Yorker. My favourite part was definitely exploring the city with one of my flatmates that I'm still in touch with. My classmates formed a really nice friend group, so it was great to travel around together. It was so nice to have a group that got along so well, especially since we were spending long days in the studio together.
What is your favourite memory of studying abroad?
Instead of favourite memory I'll go with the most valuable thing I learned - and that is to stop relying on Pinterest in my design process and instead challenge myself to dig deeper. I really came into the program thinking I had my process nailed, but I couldn't have come away with a more different approach. My professors had impeccable eyes - they could tell when a design or inspiration image didn't come from something real. They challenged me to think beyond designing garments, and instead translate my inspiration, which left me with much more unique designs and a style that is authentic to me.
What did you enjoy about your classes?
I find textiles very meditative. The design process is the most energizing to me. But once I've settled on a direction I love, the long hours just sitting in a studio environment stitching, dyeing, painting, drawing, etc... become repetitive tasks that require my eyes and hands but no brain power. That's always the time where I really enjoy getting to know classmates, getting in touch with myself, or listening to music. The studios at CSM were so well equipped with everything I needed, and it was so incredible to get to work in a space where everything I needed was at my fingertips.
Why did you choose UAL Study Abroad?
I always wanted to study at CSM - it's ranked one of the top fashion schools in the world for a reason! I learned so much and grew immensely as a designer through these programs. I feel like I got way more than 6 weeks of education, and still carry the lessons and skills I learned at CSM to this day. My professors really pushed me into an experimental, creative space and my design process evolved a lot as a result.
How did your study abroad experience help with your future?
My design process really changed as a result of studying at UAL. I've always had a multimedia approach to design, but through these programs I really learned how to dive deep into research, experiment with materials and silhouettes in a whole new way and showcase my process from concept to design. When designing my collections now, I start with a playlist. I really focus on what I am trying to express, rather than the garments I want to design. I dive deep into researching a specific topic, and other artists that have explored similar subject matter before and how they did it. When I choose my inspiration images, I am much more intentional with the ones I choose, as each one has a different purpose. I've let go of thinking about designing garments and instead focus on developing silhouettes - it allows me to problem solve as I figure out how different shapes will be constructed in material, and it opens up a world of possibilities beyond what would traditionally be considered "clothing". I love this more sculptural and artistic approach and blending art and fashion.
What was showing your collection at New York Fashion Week like?
Chaotic and exciting! I was invited about a month before the show, and I had about 80% of a collection done that I had been casually working on for most of 2022. At first I almost said no - the turnaround to finish it was too quick and I didn't think I had enough time. But I had really been looking for an excuse to finish the collection, and I just had to go for it. I got to work with 8 amazing dancers as my models that I met through the studio where I take classes (dance is another big part of my life and inspiration for my work), and although it was a lot of hard work for that month to get everything done, I'm so glad I decided to do it.
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Credits for Fashion Week: Models: @evelyndugan_ @msurb @20graceem03 Photos: @akashpatelx @mrgood.arte Head Hair & Makeup: @rosalita.acevedo_ayala1 Hair & Makeup Team @tommy_tafoya @evamaramua @solaesthetics @Star.man.son @tybeautyfy @beautygoddess_2 Produced by @xistmagofficial @loft51nyc @maksimgoldguber@ladyvictoryb -
Credits for Fashion Week: Models: @evelyndugan_ @msurb @20graceem03 Photos: @akashpatelx @mrgood.arte Head Hair & Makeup: @rosalita.acevedo_ayala1 Hair & Makeup Team @tommy_tafoya @evamaramua @solaesthetics @Star.man.son @tybeautyfy @beautygoddess_2 Produced by @xistmagofficial @loft51nyc @maksimgoldguber@ladyvictoryb
What was the process in order to get there like?
I've been sharing my work and behind the scenes on social media for about 3 years, and have made so many great connections online. I have about 270,000 TikTok followers that I gained mostly through sharing patternmaking tutorials and the behind the scenes process of my BFA Capstone collection, and have built an amazing education based community. Recently I've shifted my focus to Instagram, where I share more of my own work for my own brand. The producer of the show reached out to me via DM after finding some of my work online. It's really amazing as an artist to be able to reach such a broad audience via Instagram, and I know I'm definitely not alone in finding great opportunities this way!
Is there anything you want to share with future study abroad students?
I would say my advice would be just to embrace all the feedback you get from professors and get as much out of the experience as possible. It's a short program with a lot to learn, and I definitely felt myself start to progress more quickly when I didn't push back against the feedback I got. The professors are so knowledgeable and are teaching in one of the world's top institutions for a reason. There is so much to learn if you go in with an open mind. It's important to maintain your own design style and point of view, but you won't lose that if you really dive into the process the way that this program challenges you to - there's a lot of time afterwards to find ways to blend the UAL education with your own process, and I think being open minded to feedback (even feedback that was hard to hear), is why I took so much away from what the program had to offer.
Would you recommend the UAL Study Abroad experience?
Absolutely! I loved my experience studying abroad at UAL and hope to come back for a Masters degree there someday.
Follow Emma Rubinson on Instagram: @emmarubinsonofficial
