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Paolina Russo: MA Fashion

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Written by
Rachel McClure
Published date
15 October 2021

Originally from Markham, Canada, Paolina Russo moved to London to begin her creative journey at Central Saint Martins (CSM). She studied the Foundation Diploma in Art and Design before progressing to the BA (Hons) Fashion Design with Knitwear. To complete her education at CSM, Russo studied MA Fashion (Knitwear for Fashion). Find out more about her journey at CSM, her accolades and some of the famous names she's worked with as well as her latest achievements.

Find out more about studying at UAL as a Canadian Student

CSM graduate Paolina Russo pictured in a studio with her multicoloured design pieces
Paoline Russo pictured with some of her BA designs © Vic Philips

At just four years old, Canadian designer and Central Saint Martins graduate, Paolina Russo, said to her mother: “[When I grow up,] I want to be a starving artist.”

A little over two decades later, Russo has achieved way beyond her childhood dreams. Far from being a starving artist, Russo has cultivated a fashion brand that has received global recognition. Her designs, which juxtapose domestic femininity with athletic culture, have developed somewhat of a cultish following. With endorsements from the likes of John Galliano and Solange Knowles, and collaborations with Adidas and Klarna, it seems nothing can stop her.

It was during her BA that Russo started developing her signature lenticular knit technique. Similar to a two-way hologram, her method creates an illusionary effect that can only be seen from certain angles. Her final BA collection, which incorporated this revolutionary technique, won her the 2018 L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award. An accolade shared with past winners, Grace Wales Bonner and Fashion East’s Goom Heo.

During her placement year, Russo had the honour of interning at Maison Margiela with fellow Central Saint Martins alum, John Galliano. In live conversation with journalist Tim Blanks in 2016, Galliano spoke extensively about the young knit designer, citing her as one of his “new muses”.

As well as impressing world-renowned designers, Russo has flexed her creative skills in other areas of fashion too. She has worked as a stylist for all-girl band Dreamwife and was shot by Kendall Jenner for Love Magazine in 2017.

Paolina's Spring Summer 22 collection, from Instagram @paolina_russo, taken by Aidan Zamiri

Despite all this, Russo has not lost sight of her roots. Her visual identity, which sees classic couture silhouettes reinterpreted into futuristic designs, pays homage to her childhood in Canadian suburbia. Growing up in a small city on the outskirts of Toronto, Russo’s life revolved around competitive sport and emo music.

Drawing inspiration from her own desires to break away from her small-town life, Russo’s collections represent the suburban girl taking on the big city. Scavenging old sports equipment from her friends and family back in Canada, Russo weaves together symbols of her past to create her sexy signature look. More than just beautiful hand-crafted pieces, her colourful bodysuits are a reinterpretation of a modern-day power suit. They are “[outfits] to take on the new world.”

Russo’s use of reclaimed materials and focus on minimising waste also creates a sustainable narrative, which is central to her design philosophy.

Speaking with i-D, Russo says “My understanding of sustainability is really a focus on quality. I love working with reclaimed materials, but I feel like right now, it’s more important to focus on minimising that waste and, secondly, making sure that what you’re doing is worth it. A lot of pieces in the collection are knitwear and the way of making it is very mathematical. All the yarns need to be weighed and you’re always thinking about wastage to make sure there’s no excess.”

Paolina's Spring Summer 22 collection, from Instagram @paolina_russo, taken by Aidan Zamiri

Two weeks after Russo finished her studies and participated in her final MA Show at CSM, the world was hit by the pandemic. For the first time in seven busy years of studying, Russo was forced to slow down.

“[The pandemic and UK lockdown] was an anticlimax and a blessing”, she said in conversation with 1granary. “Before the pandemic fashion was all about no sleep and all grinding. This was the first time in three years that I [was] creating from a clear and 'non-stressed-out' mind.”

So, what’s the latest from this emerging designer?

Working with creative director, Ben Ditto, Russo recently presented her hyper-realistic, futuristic Spring Summer 22 collection via holographic film. The collection - clothing “you’d wear to battle in a movie” - was her debut at Milan Fashion Week. Check out Paolina’s Instagram to see her latest collections and the visuals presented at Milan’s iconic venue, 10 Corso Como.