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Understanding Denim

Understanding Denim

London College of Fashion
Taught by
Mohsin Sajid


This one-day denim course will give you the opportunity to understand this complex product type, and explore topics in-depth with the opportunity to ask questions after each section of the lecture.

The day long lecture will cover:

  • Denim history
  • Key historical brands and their influence in denim/workwear today
  • New denim renaissance, cotton, yarn & denim manufacturing processes (including videos of the cotton process – from harvest to yarn)
  • Natural indigo vs synthetic indigo Denim terminologies
  • Strengths of using original shuttle looms
  • Different weaves
  • Different thicknesses and their strengths; right and left hand twill
  • Selvedge denims vs non-selvedge and different types of washing treatments / finishes Anatomy of a five-pocket jean
  • Thread sizes and colours Metal sundries colours – in relating to denim shade
  • Sustainability
  • Cost, quantities, garment manufacturing and lead times, when selecting fibres and fabrics.

The lecture will include examples of vintage pre-1920 pieces and a selection of 40 other denim samples from the tutor’s archive. Talking through the construction methods and special details in each jean – plus various videos of denim manufacture from denim factories in USA, Turkey, China and Japan.

You will cover keys details that make a jean, and different finishes that are applied to the denim at different levels of the market.

New textile developments will also be highlighted throughout the session:

  • Cotton fibres: types, properties and production
  • Common yarns used for denim: preparation, production, yarn types and counts
  • Yarns: suitability to end use, in relation to design and price
  • Woven constructions: preparation, methods, variations, weights
  • Different dyeing techniques to achieve different results
  • Common coatings prior to garment washing
  • Common pre-treatments: chemical and mechanical
  • Common washes: chemicals, stone and stone equivalents
  • Common manufacturing issues: faults and problems

A full range of complementary Understanding Fabrics courses are available, view all courses on our website


Beginners. You should have an interest in the subject area and a desire to learn but no previous experience is required.

Please note: This course is for students aged 18 and older.


Your course place is confirmed once you have booked online or via the phone using a credit or debit card. There is no deadline for booking. Places are offered on a first come, first served basis, and all courses have a maximum number of students. We suggest you book early to avoid disappointment.

Tutor Description

Mohsin Said is a highly accomplished denim specialist, acclaimed pattern cutter and ergonomic tailor. He has worked for some of the best denim and apparel fashion companies in the global industry for the last 16 years. Starting his career at Oki-ni, he designed for Levi’s Japan, Levi’s Europe, Evisu, and Aquascutum. He then consulted for several prestigious brands from: Edwin Europe, Pringle of Scotland, John Richmond, Puma AG, Ducati, DKNY JEANS, Timberland, Abercrombie & Fitch, Vivienne Westwood and Jil Sander.

Mohsin has a keen interest in raising the next generation of denim designers reflecting in his role as MA denim lecturer at The Royal College of Art, and BA denim lecturer at Westminster, Ravensboune and London College of Fashion - Mohsin is also lead denim lecturer at The Denim School of Milan.

Mohsin is also a vintage denim machine specialist and vintage denim collector amassing an archive of around 1000 vintage garments. Since 2012 Mohsin established his own ENDRIME Denim workshop, and consultancy based in West Sussex, UK. He is currently writing his first book on denim manufacturing processes; a comprehensive textbook from 1870 to modern ergonomic denim of today, which he hopes to complete in 2019.



Notepad and pen

Available dates