Dr Djurdja Bartlett
Title
Reader: Histories & Cultures of Fashion
College
London College of Fashion
Email address
Tags
Researcher Research
Biography
Djurdja Bartlett is Reader in Histories and Cultures of Fashion at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She has widely published and lectured on the theme of fashion during socialism and post-socialism. Bartlett is author of FashionEast: The Spectre that Haunted Socialism (Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, 2010) and editor of the volume on East Europe, Russia and the Caucasus in the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion (2010).Funded by an Arts and Humanities Research Council Fellowship grant, Bartlett’s recent research project took her to seven countries - Austria, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Poland and Russia – with aim to explore previously unrecorded, dress-mediated discourse between East Central European and Russian fashion, and its western counterpart throughout the 20th century to the present day. The main outcome of this project will be Bartlett’s new monograph European Fashion Geographies: Style, Society and Politics (Bloomsbury Academic, 2016).
Bartlett is also Coordinator of the Fashion Media and Imagery Research Hub at the London College of Fashion, in which capacity she co-organized a conference – Fashion Media: Yesterday Today Tomorrow (October 2010), published as an edited book, Fashion Media: Past and Present, Bartlett, D., Cole, S. and Rocamora, A. (eds.), Bloomsbury Academic, 2013.
Bartlett's current research is about the relationship between East Central European, Russian, and Western fashion throughout the 20th and 21st century up to today.
By identifying the most important modes of dress-related exchanges, as well as their actors, within wider cultural and artistic cultures, Bartlett’s research has cross-cultural and transnational focus, and aims to contribute to global fashion history.
Bartlett is also engaged in research on fashion media within the wider field of the rise and impact of new technologies on the mediation of fashion. This research is related to Bartlett's role of Coordinator of the LCF’s Fashion Media and Imagery Hub.
Grants and awards
(Figures indicate amount awarded to UAL)
- Ministry of Education of China, Establishing a Theoretic Framework of Shanghai Fashion
- Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), Translating Fashion: Eastern Europe, Western Europe, 1910-2010, £73,324.00, (2012-2014)
- British Academy, Dreams and dresses: east European and western fashion, £7,445.00, (2009-2011)
Research Outputs
Article
- Bartlett D. Léon Bakst and Fashion: beyond and after the Ballets Russes (2017)
- Bartlett D. Nadezhda Lamanova: Couturier to the Nobility, Tailor to the Masses (2016)
- Bartlett D. Nadezhda Lamanova and Russian pre-1917 Modernity: between haute couture and avant-garde art (2016)
- Bartlett D. Glitz and Restraint - Paris Haute Couture on Display (2014)
- Bartlett D. Socialist Dandies International: East Europe, 1946-1959 (2013)
- Bartlett D. Moscow on the fashion map: between periphery and centre (2011)
- Bartlett D. New Russian luxury (2010)
- Rocamora A, Bartlett D. Blogs de mode: les nouveaux espaces du discours de mode (2009)
- Bartlett D. In Russia, at Last and Forever: The First Seven Years of Russian Vogue (2006)
- Bartlett D. Let Them Wear Beige: The Petit-Bourgeois World of Official Socialist Dress (2004)
- Bartlett D. Book Review: Fashion under the Occupation by Dominique Veillon (2004)
- Bartlett D. Exhibition Review. Issey Miyake: Making Things (2000)
Book
- Bartlett D, Cole S, Rocamora A. Fashion Media: Past and Present (2013)
- Bartlett D. FashionEast: the spectre that haunted socialism (2010)
- Bartlett D. Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion. Volume 9: East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus (2010)
Book Section
- Bartlett D. Can Fashion Be Defended? (2019)
- Bartlett D. Stars on Screen and Red Carpet (2016)
- Bartlett D. ‘Myth and Reality: Socialist Fashion and Five-Year Plans’ (2014)
- Bartlett D. Coco Chanel and Socialist Fashion (2013)
- Bartlett D. Fashion and life-style (2011)
- Bartlett D. Zuzi Jelinek: the incredible adventures of a socialist Chanel (2010)
- Bartlett D. Totalitarian dress (2010)
- Bartlett D. Le chic oligarchique et le principe de l’excès (Oligarch Chic and the Principle of Excess) (2010)
- Bartlett D. Snapshot: Russian constructivism in dress and textiles (2010)
- Bartlett D. Fashion under socialism (2010)
- Bartlett D. Introduction to dress and fashion in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus (2010)
- Bartlett D. Snapshot: Lithuanian urban dress, 1940s to twenty-first century (2010)
- Bartlett D. Snapshot: Azerbaijan — urban dress, the 1920s to the twenty-first century (2010)
Conference, Symposium or Workshop item
- Bartlett D. ‘Ways of living at home abroad or abroad at home’ (2018)
- Uhlirova M, Bartlett D. Djurdja Bartlett in Conversation with Marketa Uhlirova (2016)
- Bartlett D. ‘Politics and Dresses: Facts and Fiction in Nadezhda Lamanova’s Career’ (2015)
- Bartlett D. On the Left of Fashion: politics and spectacle in interwar leftist magazines (2015)
- Bartlett D. Austere, pretty, sexy: the concept of gender in socialist and post-socialist fashion media (2011)
- Bartlett D. Proletarian post-war Dandies (2011)
- Bartlett D. Translation and auto-translation in fashion: a case study: new Russian designers (2011)
- Bartlett D. Fashion East: the spectre that haunted socialism (2011)
- Bartlett D. La moda puo’ partire da zero? Il caso della moda socialista (Can Fashion Start from Zero? A Case of Socialist Fashion) (2010)
- Bartlett D. An unlikely comrade: Coco Chanel and socialist fashion (2010)
- Bartlett D. 1920s fashionista in the Soviet Union (2010)
Show/Exhibition
- Bartlett D. Art Deco and Art in Croatia between the Two Wars (2011)
Thesis
- Bartlett D. Ideology and Clothes: The Rise and Decline of Socialist Official Fashion (2006)
Teaching
Current research students
- Sonia-Doris Andras, The Women of Little Paris: Fashion as a Mirror to Society in Bucharest (1919-1939) (Lead supervisor)
- Eldina Begic, How to wear utopia: a dress manual for the socialist future. (Lead supervisor)
- Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, A decade of Vogue China: Constructing Modern Fashion Identities in a Chinese Fashion Magazine. (Lead supervisor)
- Evgenia Tarasova, Social Media and Fashion Consumption in Russia, 2002-12 (Lead supervisor)