LCF graduate Min Wu showcased her A/W14 womenswear collection as part of this season’s LFW Fashion Scout schedule – a platform for emerging talent running alongside London Fashion Week. Presenting her first collection since her MA graduation show in 2013, Wu brought a clean, modern silhouette to the show at Holborn’s Freemason’s Hall on Saturday morning.
Born in China, Min Wu studied MA Fashion Design Technology Womenswear at LCF; of her experience there the designer says: “my tutor gave me a lot of freedom to do what I really wanted, but pushed me to get more edgy and helped me find my direction. I worked with technicians all the time, like a team; it helped me to bring my creativity to life.” Wu was one of ten finalists chosen to represent her course at the prestigious LCF MA Showcase attended by industry figures, and won a place in Fashion Scout’s internationally acclaimed graduate showcase last season.
Min’s strong MA collection was based on the work of artist Anthony McCall and his ‘Solid Light’ series. It explored the relationship between technology and nature by creating sculptural shapes through fabrics reinforced with foam, heavy pleats and ribbing, in a myriad of sunset tones. Susie Bubble of blog Style Bubble said of Wu’s MA collection: “There’s something scarily delicate about the structures built into Wu’s garments, but at the same time they put those art references in a context that is ultimately wearable.”
Signature touches from Wu‘s MA collection were revisited for A/W14: faded hand-dyed materials on a base coat of white evoked cloudy blue skies and incorporated similar tones of turquoise and apricot, fuchsia and plum. Wu returned to pencil skirts, this time with a high-slit in perforated fabric.
The show revealed a progression from the loose-fit cotton layers of her graduate collectio,n to a more structured silhouette and tailoring. Fifties below-the-knee skirts and deep V jumpsuits brought appeal to a wider audience; a jacket with curled lapels expertly faded from blue to white and bomber jackets were cropped and neat. Wide-leg culottes came in neoprene and deconstructed oversized t-shirts were playfully reminiscent of 2D pattern cutting designs.
Wu’s aesthetic plays with the current trend for androgynous, contemporary sportswear. This, combined with a technical understanding and daring, positions her among a handful of ones-to-watch over coming seasons.