Cally Blackman

Fashion Programme, Stage 1 Leader BA FC Fashion History & Theory, BA Fashion Communication

Central Saint Martins


Cally has taught on BA Fashion Communication Fashion History & Theory for over a decade, and has been Stage 1 Leader of the course since 2014. She has also contributed to the CSM MA Fashion Communication pathways and postgraduate courses at LCF, Sotheby’s Institute and the V&A Education department.

Cally is the author of 100 Years of Fashion Illustration100 Years of Menswear, and 100 Years of Fashion, and co-author of Portrait of Fashion for the National Portrait Gallery. She has published articles in peer-reviewed journals Costume and Textile History, and contributed chapters to exhibition catalogues for the V&A and Palais Galliera, written for Acne Paper, broadcast on BBC Radio 4, and delivered papers at numerous conferences, as well as lecturing on a wide range of topics in the UK and abroad, including in Moscow for the British Council.

Cally holds qualifications in Fashion Design (CSM), History of Art (Goldsmiths) and an MA in History of Dress (Courtauld Institute), and was Chairman of the Courtauld History of Dress Association (CHODA) 2000-2005, and a Trustee of the Costume Society 2005-2010.

Research interests

Autochromes, early colour photography, representations of fashionable and folk dress in the early twentieth century, dress and social history, dress and painting, dress and portraiture.

Research statement

My current research is focused on the representation of dress in early colour photography, specifically in autochromes. By examining surrounding issues of realism and veracity of the colour of clothing through the social and historical contexts of fashion and folk dress, I aim to evaluate the significance of the little-known autochrome process as evidence of authentic colour in the early twentieth century, and to situate the process within the canon of the history of fashion’s visual source material as a meaningful alternative to crude colour printing processes and monochrome photography.

Selected research outputs

  • A Portrait of Fashion

    Ribeiro, Aileen and Blackman, Cally (2015) A Portrait of Fashion. National Portrait Gallery, London, London, UK. ISBN 9781855145566

  • The Rise of the Celebrity Shoe Designer

    Blackman, Cally (2015) The Rise of the Celebrity Shoe Designer. In: Shoes: Pleasure & Pain. V&A Publishing, London, pp. 114-123. ISBN 9781851778324

  • Fashion Mix. Mode d'ici. Createurs d'ailleurs

    Saillard, Olivier and Blackman, Cally and Rigaux, Elsa and Renard, Isabelle and Gandon, Emilie and Frisa, Maria Luisa and Arzalluz, Miren and Pessey-Lux, Aude and Tsujita, Kaya and Diatkine, Anne and Arnauld, Maia and Font, Lourdes and Samson, Alexandre and Lecallier, Sylvie (2014) Fashion Mix. Mode d'ici. Createurs d'ailleurs. Flammarion, Paris. ISBN 9782081343092

  • Colouring the Claddagh: a distorted view?

    Blackman, Cally (2014) Colouring the Claddagh: a distorted view? Costume, 48 (2). pp. 213-235. ISSN 0590-8876

  • 100 Years of Fashion

    Blackman, Cally (2012) 100 Years of Fashion. Laurence King, London. ISBN 9781856697989

  • 100 Years of Menswear

    Blackman, Cally (2009) 100 Years of Menswear. Laurence King, London. ISBN 978 1 85669 614 2

  • 100 Years of Fashion Illustration

    Blackman, Cally (2007) 100 Years of Fashion Illustration. Laurence King, London, UK. ISBN 9781856694629